Wine Spectator 93 Points"Syrah Shines in Santa Barbara Wine Futures Tasting" - James Laube
James Laube
Posted: Thursday, March 27, 2008
Hurrah for Syrah—it dominated. Pause on Pinot, at least for now. And good for Grenache, it's coming along nicely.
The gutsy Rhône-inspired reds trumped the red Burgundian transplants in Wine Spectator's blind tasting of selected wine futures from Santa Barbara County, though it was hardly a landslide.
After tasting 46 wines (19 Pinot Noirs and 27 Rhône-style reds, including Syrah, Grenache and a Petite Sirah) we found 35 wines to recommend, with this caveat: Overall, this was the least impressive showing of wine futures I've tasted since I began reviewing them with the 2002 and 2003 vintages, mainly because this isn't a great Pinot vintage. (Another 15 wineries chose not to submit wines for review). For those considering buying futures from Wine Cask's sale (www.winecask.com), shopping cautiously is always the best advice.
The wines were divided up by varietal, vintage, finished bottles and barrel samples in our tastings. Finished bottles have final reviews and scores, while barrel samples are given a four-point range, which is where I expect a wine would rate on release based on what I tasted this week. All wines have two prices: The futures price is lower than the expected retail price.
The discounts range from $5 to $21, and average about $10 below expected retail price. The star of the tasting was the 2006 Jaffurs Syrah Verna's Vineyard (94 points, $38 on release, $31 as a future). It's a dense, concentrated beauty that offers uncommon depth and range of flavor. This winery has been on a roll of late, making its best wines ever, with Syrahs that offer rich, opulent flavors and smoother, more integrated tannins. The Jaffurs 2007 Thompson Vineyard Petite Sirah (90-93, $34/$28) proves that Petite can shine in this appellation. This is a superrich wine with unique boysenberry and raspberry fruit.
The Dierberg Santa Ynez 2005 Syrah (93 points, $30/$26) exhibits a complex mix of savory herb, pepper and dark berry fruits.
Three of the eight new wineries that we tasted wines from made showy debuts in this tasting. The 2006 Tecero Santa Barbara Watch Hill Vineyard Grenache (89-92, $38/$29) offers white pepper, juicy dark berry and jam notes on an elegant frame. Larry Schaffer, a winemaker at Fess Parker, owns Tecero, which is named after the dorm area at U.C. Davis where Schaffer and his wife met. The Dara Grenache-Syrah Gratitude Larner Vineyard 2006 (88-91, $35/$27) featured white pepper, herb, spice and rich cherry-berry flavors; the husband-wife team of Gary and Teresa Burk owns it. The Departure Grenache Alta Mesa Vineyard 2007 (88-91, $35/$28) is a tight, structured wine with layers of exotic dark berry flavors and tapered, fine-grained tannins. It is owned by Tim Grubb, P.J. and Jason Miele, a trio of Newport Beach, Calif., buddies who also graduated from U.C. Santa Barbara.